J Bay Friday 24 December 6am, I am sitting on the Super Tubes steps admiring the view that only Supers can deliver, and the waves are pumping, the conditions were are bit sea sick and cleaning up, lets do this (I thought), before the locals start taking the lions share of the sets.
I decided on taking out my long board, high tide had made the waves wide, soft and fast in places, I knew that I was going to get drilled going out, but what the hell, if you dont go you wont know. A grom in front of me turns and says to his mate, "That doos is going on his ballie board, he is going to get schooled".
I was the first out and I surfed well, the log was a good choice, dropping in steep and banking nice turns on the big wide walls, I got worked a couple times, but enjoyed it!
Then I saw little big mouth grom pulling out and getting properly cleaned by the sets, pumishment, he got out and I asked him if I was getting schooled with a big grin on my face, gallentlty he apologized and said my surfing had got him out, second best Xmas present that comment, nice to know this old guy still has some legs.
Toes over this Xmas.
Slyde
haha nice one bro
ReplyDeleteFirstly Sambo, neat pose bro... secondly love the post, just about wet my pants lagging.
ReplyDelete